Charles has a Power Wheels Jeep that is about 2.5 years old. It doesn’t get used much by just him, but when we have company or when the neighborhood kids are over, its not unusual to see kids piled all over it till you can just about hear it cry in pain.
Like every other one, about 2 years in, despite good treatment, the battery started perform to only about 50% its rated capacity. Earlier in the game, I had cut the wires to their proprietary plug, and added anderson power pole connectors Power Poles link so that I could connect and use my own computerized (faster) charger.
The Orig battery was a 9.5 ah custom everything battery making it impossible to find an exact replacement without going to them
In my desire to “upgrade” without actually going crazy. I wanted run-time, not top speed. The solution found was a pair of 10.5 ah batteries side by side on end. This yields 2.21 times the run time of a factory battery, at about the same cost of the one they want you to buy. Short custom cable ,and we’re good. It worked fine.
Not willing to leave well enough alone, I had purchased some battery meters from ebay for 5$ish each.
So I added a momentary push buttom, and this to the top of the battery.
So now at any time, Charles can check his “Gas Gauge” and know what the battery status is.
And it looks good in the Jeep..
At some point I’ll consider moving the gauge and button onto the dash, but for now, this works just fine..
I was pretty eager to go fly a new plane I built. The weather seemed pretty good at the house, so I grabbed the boys, and the toys, and headed out to the field. As soon as I left the car, I knew it was to windy to fly, but I’m not one to give up, even when I should.
Of note, the magic of soft sand, and strong materials, I was able to fly this plane (much better the 2nd time) after working the sand out of the motor. 🙂
For those interested, this is http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PKZ6880
|Wingspan:||51.0 in (1300mm)|
|Overall Length:||34.0 in (865mm)|
|Flying Weight:||33.3 oz (945 g)|
|Motor Size:||480 Brushless Motor 960Kv|
|Radio:||4+ channel (5+ channel for optional flaps) (required)|
|Prop Size:||9 x 6|
|Speed Control :||18 amp brushless ESC (installed)|
|Recommended Battery:||11.1V 3S 1300mAH LiPo battery (included)|
|Assembly Time:||Less than 1 Hour|
|Is Assembly Required:||Yes|
Found these in the archive today, trying to scan everything….
A few hours of cleanup and some reverse engineering to sort out the things my father had done over the years, and we have success. Many repairs still need to be done to get it running without fear of fire balling, but this is certainly a step in the right direction!
And, another camera…
Had some troubles with the doors after the trip, shook enough crap loose on the trip, that the doors wouldn’t open any more. Luckily the hinges are external, and we just took a door off to work on it.
Wondered if I could still fit in the car, and here is the answer!
No, I didn’t plan to start it, I dont have a battery or (at that time) a key.
The Subaru 360 was the first automobile mass-produced by Fuji Heavy Industries’ Subaru division. A number of innovative features were used to design a very small and inexpensive car to address government plans to produce a small “people’s car” with an engine no larger than 360 cc when most in Japan could not afford a car. The body size and the engine capacity were designed to match within Japan’s kei car regulation. Nicknamed the “ladybug” in Japan, it was one of Japan’s most popular cars, and among the smallest cars in the world to attract a significant following.
Approximately 10,000 360s was exported to the United States by Malcolm Bricklin, with an original price of $1,297.
The Subaru 360 received notoriety in 1969, when Consumer Reports magazine branded the automobile “Not Acceptable” because of safety concerns and lack of power. Because the car weighed under 1000 pounds, it was exempt from normal safety standards, but it was reported that it fared badly in a test crash against a large American car with the bumper ending up in the passenger compartment of the Subaru.
Sales soon collapsed, as there were various rumors of Subaru 360s being tossed overboard or being shredded to pieces. It was also reported that many 360s sat on dealers’ lots for two or three years without ever being purchased.
About this car:
It was produced from 1958-1971, and were the first line of vehicles produced by Fuji Heavy Industries
It is a 2 cyl, 356cc engine, producing 25HP. It is a 2-stroke engine.
The car is 118 inches long, 51 inches wide, and 54 inches tall, a checks in at 900 pounds. It offers seating for 4 people.
It rides on 4.8 x 10″ wheels, with a top speed of 60 (more like 50/55)
About this time is when my father noticed this cute little car sitting ignored on a local lot. I’m not able to find documentation that shows how much he paid for it, but I’m sure it was well under the $1297.
Those that did buy them found parts and service hard to find, since Subaru did not import them they were not obligated to honor them
For those that haven’t seen it in person, here is a rough version of my latest project. Normally you want your cameras looking away from the house, but during the ongoing home construction project we have, I wanted a camera to be looking at the house from a distance. My plan is to grab 1 frame per hour, and then assemble them into a movie when we’re done.
For this project, I needed to make sure I had a high end IP camera, preferably one that could do a 180 degree view, and the whole project needed to be able to run on batteries, as power cords would really get in the way with heavy equipment running.
So, for networking, I picked what I could find locally, a EnGenius ENH202 N wireless bridge. It came with its own POE injector, and its well made, and is able to handle a med length run while still keeping the connection speed high.
The camera of choice is an Axis M3007PV. Its 5MP, and is capable of a panoramic 180degree view, needed for this project.
Next, the boxes of all the electronics.
In this box you will find a power distribution terminal, 24VDC in, a 24 to 12 DC converter, since other things need 12VDC to operate, Two DC power POE injectors (the left runs from 9-36v) the right runs on 24VDC. I also have a voltage divider installed here, for use in the next item.
Box 2 contains a weatherproof location for an Arduino microcontroller. In this project, I wanted to be able to monitor the battery voltage. The Arduino can monitor 0-5VDC easily, and with a simple voltage divider, I can take input voltage, divide it by 11, and read about 2.2v. In software I do the math to convert it back, and boom, I’ve got 24.5ish volts.
And when I hit an internal (or external) IP, The arduino serves up a web page with battery info, including this.